In the first book of her monumental North American circumnavigation, Freya Hoffmeister chronicles the highly methodical and physically grueling start of her ten- to twelve-year expedition, spanning from March 2017 to August 2018. The journey commences at Golden Gardens Park in Seattle, immediately establishing a rigorous routine as she points the bow of her fully loaded "Freya 18" expedition kayak north toward the remote, wave-battered coastal waters of Canada and Alaska. Rather than opting for the sheltered inside passages, Freya deliberately navigates the exposed outer coastlines, relying on precise tidal calculations, electronic navigation, and her vast offshore experience. It soon becomes apparent that the expedition will be shaped not only by the unforgiving natural environment but also by the complex dynamics of integrating various paddling partners into her highly disciplined lifestyle.
After a fast-paced paddle along the rugged west coast of Vancouver Island with filmmaker Justine Curgenven, and a more difficult collaboration with Mike Dziobak, Freya faces her first ultimate test of endurance. Paddling entirely solo and non-stop, she conquers the notoriously dangerous and harborless "Lost Coast" of Alaska. This unrelenting 36-hour feat of strength forces her to navigate through total darkness, severe physical exhaustion, and sensory hallucinations, proving her absolute mental fortitude. With more harmonious partners like Josh Thomas and Eyal Saiet, the journey progresses steadily as she navigates past calving glacial ice and bear-populated shorelines, ultimately concluding the first northern season safely in Kodiak City.
Returning to Seattle to commence the southern leg along the United States West Coast, the environment shifts drastically. Dense, blinding fog, strict regulations on heavily guarded private beaches, and a tense, rule-bound confrontation with the Coast Guard at the treacherous, shifting mouth of the Columbia River demand everything from her logistical and diplomatic reserves. After a mandatory winter break marked by a painful private separation, the 2018 season begins turbulently. In a dramatic display of ocean skills at Pacific City, Freya executes a heroic rescue mission, securing and towing the flooded kayak of her partner, José Reyes, away from crashing cliffs after he is forced to swim to shore.
The subsequent partnership with whitewater expert Josh Aranow quickly fails due to fundamental differences in expedition lifestyle and pacing. However, Freya soon finds a steady rhythm and strong bonds with reliable companions like Franca Cioria, Merrill Magowan, and Scott Dahlquist. Together, they survive life-threatening monster waves, navigate steep, technical rock gardens, and enjoy the sunny, more populated coast of California, culminating in the iconic ride beneath the Golden Gate Bridge in San Francisco.
Transitioning back to Alaska in the summer of 2018 for the second part of the northern season, the landscape and challenges revert to the extreme. Accompanied first by Catriona Woods and then by Michal Madera, Freya discovers a new passion amid the desolate beaches: collecting historic Japanese glass net floats, eventually hoarding over a hundred of these rare treasures in her kayak's cockpit. But the Arctic environment strikes mercilessly. At Cape Seniavin, a massive, unexpected breaker wave catches them in the surf zone, literally smashing Freya's fully loaded carbon kayak in half. She and her companion, Natalie Maderova, manage to land uninjured but find themselves completely isolated on a remote, bear-infested beach until a local fisherman finally rescues them. Unyielding and with an iron will, Freya returns to the exact site of the shipwreck a little later with her spare boat. Fighting grueling headwinds and towing more giant glass floats, she finally ends this epic first stage triumphantly in Naknek.